Everest, Inc. – Will Cockrell

Review by John Roper-Lindsay

The sub-title of this book is “The Renegades and Rogues who built an industry on top of the world”, which made me think the book would be more sensationalist than factual. However, it is a well-written and interesting account of guided climbing on Everest, which only really started in the early ‘80s when Dick Bass, a wealthy 50+ year old American, who had a dream of doing the Seven Summits (the highest points on all seven continents). The account of Bass’s success was detailed and didn’t skip his first attempt, from the Tibet side, when Marty Hoey, a very experienced guide who had accompanied Bass on Denali, lost her life. Bass finally got on top of Everest in 1985, completing his Seven Summits, and opened a floodgate of amateur climbers who wanted to emulate him.

Things took off in 1992 when two companies, AAI and Adventure Consultants, got the first group of clients to the summit, working together. Adventure Consultants was of course a NZ company, fronted by Gary Ball and Rob Hall, and that first climb also included Guy Cotter, who went on to take over Adventure Consultants years later.

The book describes the increase in client numbers over the following years and covers the tragedies with tact, as well as discussing the problems with over-crowded ropes and the dangers in the ice fall.

Another NZ’er, Russell Brice, features strongly in the book, for his involvement heading a guiding company that had an incredible 23 expeditions, getting over 400 clients, guides and Sherpas to the summit with zero deaths.

It’s a recent (2024) book, so covers more recent developments, such as the move from Western guiding companies to Nepal owned companies. He also covers the individuals involved in these companies, including legends such as Nims Purja who summited all fourteen 8,000m peaks in six months. Regrettably, Nims was killed along with other highly accomplished Nepali guides in the Broad Peak avalanche that claimed ten lives a few weeks ago.

In summary, I found this a very interesting read, and I learnt a lot about Everest and the guiding history on it. It is based on a large number of interviews with guides, Sherpas, clients and others that give a broad range of perspectives, and doesn’t just cover the disasters.